Puppy Getting Started Guide

Coming Home and Getting Through the First Few Nights

I wish I could tell you that every moment will be easy and fun. While there will be plenty of those moments, there will also be some challenging ones—especially in the first 48 hours. During this time, you can expect any of the following, and it is completely normal:

• Whining or Crying
• Loose Stool
• Potty Accidents 
• Separation Anxiety
• Timidness
• Lethargy
• Lack of appetite
• Heavy Teething/Mouthing

Raising a puppy requires the same level of consistency, rules, and patience as raising a human child. However, a puppy can only learn what we teach them, and they do not understand our language. It’s important that the rules remain consistent among all family members—varying them will only confuse the puppy and frustrate your household.

One of the first things to remember is that your puppy may be nervous during their first several nights at home. A great way to help ease their anxiety is by using the heartbeat/snuggle puppy from our shopping list.

Now, let’s talk about getting through those first few nights and navigating puppyhood. Kennel training, potty training, and feeding all go hand in hand. Let me explain

Kennel Training:

I promise, kennels are not cruel. By nature, dogs are den animals, and their kennel becomes their safe space. Think of a kennel as the dog equivalent of a playpen for a child—and yes, they make playpens for dogs too!

A puppy is like a baby. They don’t understand the dangers of the world or what is safe to put in their mouths. They will assume everything within reach is theirs to play with, so it’s important to scan their play area for anything dangerous or harmful. A kennel or playpen is the best way to keep your puppy safe when you cannot supervise them.

As an added bonus, most dogs instinctively avoid pottying where they sleep, making kennel training a key element in housebreaking while also keeping your puppy safe. The ease of kennel training varies by dog, but with consistency, patience, and follow-through, they will learn—especially since a den is a natural concept for them.

The First Few Nights

Your first few nights will be the hardest. This is mostly due to your puppy adjusting to a new environment and being away from their mother and littermates. To help ease their anxiety, I recommend adding a scented blanket and a heartbeat puppy to their kennel.

During potty training, I suggest using towels instead of a dog bed for easy cleaning in case of accidents.

Preparing for Bedtime

To set your puppy up for success, follow these steps:

• Exercise them before kennel/bedtime.
• Make sure they have recently pottied.
• Withhold food and water for at least 30 minutes before bedtime.
• Provide mental stimulation to help tire them out.

When it’s time for bed, calmly lead your puppy to the kennel using a toy or treat. Make this as fun as possible. As they enter, use a simple command like “go to bed” or “kennel”—whatever word you choose, be consistent. Release the treat and praise them with “good girl” or “good boy” as they go inside.

Adjustment Period

Some puppies take to the kennel right away, while others need time to adjust. If your puppy cries, it’s important to stand your ground and not go get them. Puppies learn quickly how to get their way, so ignore the whining, turn on the TV, or find another distraction until they fall asleep.

Some puppies will sleep through the night, while others may wake up needing to potty. If your puppy stays asleep, don’t wake them—this can create an annoying habit you’ll regret later.

If your puppy does wake you, take them straight outside to potty and then back to bed. They may cry again, but repeat the same process as before, and they will start to figure it out within a few days to a week. If your puppy consistently wakes up to potty, try withdrawing food and water earlier the next evening. You’ll quickly find the best timing for your puppy’s schedule.

With consistency and patience, your puppy will adjust and learn that their kennel is a safe, comfortable place!

Key Kennel Training Points:

• Choose the Right Kennel – Select a kennel that will accommodate your puppy at its adult size. Use the included divider for smaller puppies, making the space just large enough for them to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably.
• Never Use the Kennel as Punishment – The kennel should be a safe, positive space, not a place of discipline.
• Make Kennel Time Fun & Stress-Free – Encourage your puppy to enter the kennel using treats, toys, or praise to create a positive association.
• Gradual Acclimation – If your puppy struggles with kennel training, start with short sessions throughout the day. Use the same process, keeping them inside for just a few minutes at a time. Only let them out when they are calm and quiet. Gradually increase the duration as they become more comfortable.
• Create a Cozy, Den-Like Environment – Cover the kennel with a blanket to provide a sense of security.
• Comfort Items Help – Keep a blanket or towel with your scent (or their mother’s scent) inside the kennel to provide comfort. You can also use a heartbeat puppy to help soothe them.
• Patience & Consistency Are Key – Be consistent with feeding times and withhold food and water before bedtime to reduce night time wake-ups.

When used correctly, kennel training is not the enemy - it is a valuable tool to keep your puppy safe, prevent destructive behavior, and assist with potty training. 

Important: Puppies or dogs should never be left in a kennel for more than eight hours at a time, which aligns with a typical night’s sleep or workday. If your work schedule is longer, consider dog daycare or a dog-walking service to prevent boredom. Lack of exercise and mental stimulation are leading causes of destructive behaviors and other issues.

Recommended Resource

I highly recommend listening to this podcast episode on kennel training before bringing your puppy home. It offers helpful, practical guidance on making the kennel a positive, comfortable space and setting your puppy up for success from the very beginning.

Listen to the podcast here: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/puppy-culture-potluck-ep38-puppies-who-demand-bark/id1717812837?i=1000743981385

Potty Training:

Potty training can be one of the most frustrating processes, requiring patience, consistency, and routine. The first thing to remember is that your puppy can only hold its bladder for about one hour per month of age. For example, an 8- to 10-week-old puppy can typically hold it for only 2 to 2.5 hours.

Potty Training Basics

• If you can’t watch them, contain them – Use a kennel or playpen when you cannot supervise your puppy.
• Scheduled feeding & controlled water intake – Feeding on a schedule helps you predict potty breaks and maintain control over when they need to go.
• Take them out frequently at first – When you first bring your puppy home (especially in the first week), take them out every hour or two to learn their schedule and potty signals.
• Use a leash during potty trips – This helps keep your puppy focused on the task. Like a small child, they can easily get distracted and forget to go.
• Always use the same door & consider potty bells – Take your puppy out through the same door every time. If using potty bells, ring them before stepping outside. While you can teach your puppy to touch the bells, they will often make the connection on their own over time.
• Use a potty command – Say "go potty" or a similar phrase while they’re in the act. Immediately reward them with praise, a treat, or affection after they finish.
• Be forgiving with accidents – Use an enzyme-based cleaner designed for pet urine. Regular household cleaners can set the smell into the floor, making your puppy think it's still a potty spot. If a housebroken (or nearly housebroken) puppy starts having frequent accidents, consult your vet to check for issues like a UTI. Occasional accidents are normal, but sudden, consistent ones may signal a medical problem.
• Never yell or punish for accidents – This will only make your puppy afraid to potty near you. If you catch them in the act, clap your hands or pick them up to interrupt them, then immediately take them outside. If they don’t resume right away, be patient—it may take a moment to restart after being interrupted.

With consistency and patience, your puppy will soon learn the routine and become fully house-trained!

Key Potty Times:

• Immediately after waking up
• After a play session
• 15–30 minutes after eating or drinking

Patience and consistency are key to successful potty training. You can expect to see progress around four months of age, meaning your puppy will start signaling when they need to go. However, this timeline varies by dog and depends on the amount of time and effort put into training. 

Feeding your Puppy:

We started your puppy on Purina Pro Plan Puppy Formula, and it’s best to keep your puppy on the food they’ve already started for at least one full bag. This helps maintain consistency during their transition home. If you decide to switch to a new brand or formula, transition gradually by mixing the old and new food together to help avoid an upset stomach.

You can choose between free feeding or structured meals:

• Free feeding means keeping food available at all times so your puppy can eat as needed. Since they are growing quickly, this method ensures they get enough nutrition without worrying about overfeeding. However, I don’t recommend free feeding until puppies are fully potty trained to help establish better routines.
• At The Bruce Farm, we prefer structured meals for our puppies and dogs—it works best for us! Your puppy is currently eating two meals per day, in the morning and at night. If you prefer and have the flexibility, you can transition your puppy to three meals per day.Be sure to adjust the total daily amount as they grow. Feeding needs vary by puppy, so check the recommended feeding guidelines on the back of the food bag to ensure they’re getting the right amount.

Play and Routine Home Care:

Your puppy has enjoyed plenty of outdoor time and interactive play while in our care. We regularly introduce them to new challenges, and they’ve entertained us while learning to navigate different spaces and obstacles.

You’ll want to provide your puppy with a safe space to run and play at home. We do not allow them to chew on our fingers or clothes, and we recommend you don’t either. Their teeth are sharp, and we want to prevent them from developing a habit of gnawing on people—whether it’s you, a friend, or a visitor. If your puppy tries to nip or bite, redirect them with a chew bone or toy, and continue encouraging appropriate behavior. If unwanted behavior persists, remove them from the situation for a short break.

It’s important to regularly handle your puppy to get them comfortable with touch. Make sure to touch their ears and feet often to help prepare them for nail trims and vet visits. When you visit your vet, ask them to show you how to trim your puppy’s nails. Puppies require frequent nail trims, and as adults, they’ll need them about once a month.

Never leave your puppy outside unattended. They are small enough to be at risk from hawks, foxes, or other predators, and they may find a way out of your fence or ingest something harmful.

When visiting the vet, always keep your puppy in a wagon or on your lap. Veterinary offices treat sick animals, and until your puppy is fully vaccinated, they should never be on the floor—Parvo is a real threat. As tempting as it is to show off your new puppy, avoid dog parks and pet stores until they have received all their vaccinations.

Training, Daycares & Groomers:

Once your puppy is fully vaccinated, you can begin working with a trainer, take them to doggie daycare, show them off while shopping at the local pet store, and even visit the groomer.

Depending on your dog’s breed and coat type, grooming needs will vary. The earlier you start grooming habits, the better. This includes brushing your puppy’s coat between full grooming sessions and touching their feet, ears, and teeth to get them used to it. Your groomer will appreciate it, and you’ll avoid a situation where your dog needs to be shaved due to a matted coat.

Daycares are wonderful places for playtime, socialization, and exercise. Unlike free dog parks, dog daycares are monitored for proper vetting, and the dogs are temperament-tested to ensure a good fit for playgroups. Most dog daycares also offer boarding services if you need them in the future. This option allows your dog to play while you’re at work, and you’ll bring home an exercised and tuckered-out pup at the end of the day. Most daycares begin with an assessment day to see how your dog adjusts to the daycare environment. They also offer full and half-day options, typically in packages.

Last but not least is training—there is no shame in hiring a professional trainer. A trainer doesn’t just work with your dog; they’re also there to guide you through the challenges of training. They demonstrate proper methods while allowing you to watch, learn, and practice. Training is a fantastic way to establish proper leadership and build strong, lasting bonds with your four-legged family member. It’s also great for mental stimulation.

The earlier you start these tasks, the better your bond will be with your puppy, and the happier your dog will be with its life. Dogs love having things to do because they weren’t designed to be couch potatoes. Keeping your dog physically and mentally stimulated will help curb unwanted behaviors before they start, or eliminate them if they already exist. Behavioral issues are the leading cause of dogs being surrendered to shelters, but proper training and exercise can help address this problem and keep dogs in their homes forever.

Did you know?

Some essential oils are toxic to dogs. If you use essential oils frequently in your home, please make sure to check how they may affect your pet.

Toxic to dogs

• Chocolate
• Onions
• Garlic
• Sugar substitute xylitol 
• Cherries
• Alcohol
• Grapes/Raisins

Recommended Care for your Puppy

If you are local… here are some businesses we love and recommend:

Dr. Angela Holt and staff

Chipman Road Animal Clinic

(816) 524-1886

Dr. Samantha Nye and staff

Blue Springs Animal Hospital

(816) 229-1544

Your puppy has been dewormed at 2, 4, and 6 weeks.

The paperwork detailing recent vaccinations is included in the puppy packet you received.

Puppies need regular vaccinations during their first few months to be considered fully vaccinated. Most veterinarians recommend a vaccine every 3–4 weeks, starting at 6 weeks of age. Our vet follows a schedule of vaccinations at 6, 9, 12, and 16 weeks, with the rabies vaccine added at 16 weeks.

Check with your veterinarian for their preferred puppy vaccine schedule, and be sure to schedule your puppy’s next appointment as soon as possible to ensure availability.

Once your puppy is fully vaccinated, they will need an annual vet check-up and vaccinations to maintain their health.

Groomers:

The Grooming Project

Groomingdales

The Pet Ranch

Scott’s Grooming (Raymore, MO)

In Home Trainers:

Sit Means Sit

Smartypaws

Bark Busters

Dog Training Elite

Group Puppy Classes:

Sit Now Stay at Camp Pupaway

KISS (Keep it Simple Stupid) Dog Training

Camp Bow Wow

Additional Resource

https://indoorpet.osu.edu/dogs/puppy

Congratulations on your new family member! I wish you a long and happy life together.

Happy training,

Brooke Bruce

The Bruce Farm

(816) 729-6286

brooke@thebrucefarm.com

www.thebrucefarm.com